I Tried Lab-Grown Salmon. Here’s What It Tasted Like.
I’ve been a committed vegan for more than three years, but this week, I ate meat. Why? The meat dishes I ate this Wednesday weren’t ordinary salmon and chicken. They didn’t come from a slaughterhouse or fishery—in fact, they didn’t come from a living animal that had to be killed at all. The meat I tried was cultivated, or lab-grown meat.Â
While lab-grown meat has been subject to considerable culture war fervor in recent months, few have actually tried slaughter-free meat. In fact, after a brief restaurant-based debut last year, lab-grown meat options aren’t available for commercial sale anywhere in the United States currently. The dishes I had came from cultivated meat companies Wildtype and GOOD Meat, and were served for free by alternate protein industry group Food Solutions Action.
I tried two salmon dishes and one chicken dish, all served up inside José Andrés’ downtown D.C. restaurant Oyamel. The first salmon dish involved a dollop of guacamole wrapped in a thin slice of Wildtype salmon gravlax. Salmon, especially cured salmon like gravlax, is the kind of meat I miss the most since going vegetarian four years ago, so I was particularly excited to try this one. While it wasn’t quite like how I remembered lox tasting, the Wildtype salmon was savory, undeniably meaty and pleasantly fishy. In my experience, texture is the biggest challenge facing cultivated meat products and the wafer-thin preparation in this case helped
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