Gulag Archipelago
When I first announced that I was moving to Indonesia in late 2007, one friend looked puzzled. “Indonesia…is that in Bali?” he asked. Interestingly, living in Jakarta is a lot like Houston, without the Cajun food.
I stepped off the plane onto the tarmax on 14 February 2008, having boarded on a crisp winter’s monring in Houston, and into a swampy moldy morning in Jakarta. The arrival area was thick with clove cigarette smoke, and I didn’t encounter air conditioning — such as it was — until I was deep inside the terminal.
I fumbled my way to baggage claim, and after collectng my only bag, I turned to find 10 tiny brown men in blue shirts ready to usher my burden on their carts. Seeing that I would not escape unschathed, I selected one to take my bag.
On the way out, I stopped to exchange two of my six one-hundred dollar bills — my only surviving savings. The exchange rate was 10,000 rupiah to the US dollar, and I became an instant millionaire. The problem was that my new-found fortune was all in 100,000 rupiah notes, and most Indonesians had never even seen one, much less could make change f
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